Chapter 1
PHYSICAL SETTING OF ITALO-ALBANIAN VILLAGES THAT HAVE RETAINED ALBANIAN CHARACTERISTICS
The Italian peninsula which is some 800 miles long has a mountainous back- bone through its entire length, from the Po Valley to the tip of Calabria. These mountains stretch continuously, from north to south, in much the same fashion as do the Rockies or the Andes, along the western sides of their respective continent and like the latter two, they vary as to their breadth and height. From north to south the Apennines acquire the names of the provinces in which they are located, e.g., Ligurian Apennines, Tuscan Apennines, Umbrian-Marchigiano Apennines, Abruzzi Apennines, Campanian Apennines, Lucanian Apennines, and Calabrian Apennines. 1
Not only do the Apennines form the backbone of the peninsula, but they occur most of its land area. Peninsular Italy (that portion south of the Po Valley) does not contain any extensive plains that would compare in size with that of the Po Valley, but it does have several smaller plains; the largest is the “Tavoliere” in the province of Foggia.
The highest elevations of the Apennines are in the central portion, the Abruz Apennines, which rise to a height of 9,585 feet; the southern Apennines have higher average elevations than do the northern ones.
In structure, the Apennines resemble the Alps. They have craggy peaks, steep-walled valleys, and narrow valley floors. They have been folded and warped in much the same fashion as the Alps. The peninsula is an area of volcanic activity both past and present, and sedimentary rock formations from various geologic periods have been greatly disturbed. The uplifting and folding have contributed 
the ruggedness of the Apennines. They have caused an irregular stream pattern, with waters flowing swiftly to the sea. It is in this physical setting that the Italo- Albanian villages of southern Italy are located. The Italo-Albanian villages of peninsular Italy are in the Lucanian and Calabrian Apennines. The area is some 250 miles south of Rome, and the villages are in the “compartments” of Lucania (also known as Basilicata) and Calabria. Lucania is within the “instep” portion of the Italian “boot;” Calabria represents the “toe.” (See Appendix I, Map 2.) Also there are four villages in the western portion of the island of Sicily that will be briefly mentioned in this study; their population is very small compared to those of Lucania and Calabria. (See Appendice I, Map 3.)
The Lucanian Region
The Lucanian Apennines are separated from the Calabrian by the floodplains of several rivers and by a delta plain (formed by these rivers) called the Sibari Plain. The Lucanian Apennines attain their highest elevations in their extreme southern section, the Pollino Range. In this section there are two Italo-Albanian villages, Casalnuovo Lucano (formerly called San Paolo Albanese) and San Costan- tino Albanese. These villages are on the southern slopes of the Pollino Range and are situated on either side of the Sarmento River. (See Appendix I, Map 4. )
The Sarmento River has its headwaters in the Pollino Range and flows in a northeast direction into the Sinni River, which in turn empties into the Gulf of Taranto. The Sarmento River has a torrential type of flow; during the summer months the river bed is dry, but during the winter months the volume of water increases sharply and the river becomes a fast-flowing stream.
By linear measure, S. Costantino Albanese and Casalnuovo Lucano are less than two miles apart. But they are on either side of the Sarmento River and by road measure are at least five miles distant from one another. The villages are of the hillside type; the dwellings are clustered together on the side of a slope, removed from and well above the banks of the river. (See Figure 1. ) By road mileage, the villages are more than 50 miles from the east coast, where the main lines of communication, both railroad and highway, are found. It has been only since the end of World War II that roads suitable for all-weather traffic have been built to the villages. The dirt road to Senise (the main town in this area, about 20 miles away) was constructed during Mussolini’s regime, but no bridge was built across the Sarmento River to connect S. Costantino Albanese with the main road. The concrete bridge which now spans the river was completed shortly after World War II. It was one of the present government’s many projects to offer better means of communication to the villages in the interior of the penins
The Calabrian Region
Several regions are located on the southern side of the Pollino Range in the “compartment” of Calabria. These are in the same physical setting as the two mentioned above, but S. Costantino Albanese and Casalnuovo Lucano are located well within the Pollino Range, while those in the “compartment” of Calabria are located on the southern flanks of the range. The villages in Calabria are Castro- regio, Plataci, Civita, Eianina, and Frascineto. (See Appendix I, Map 4.) Castroregio and Plataci are fine examples of hilltop towns, both situated on peaks. Southeastern Section of the Pollino Range Castroregio is about 2,500 feet in elevation, and Plataci is about 3,000 feet. The villages are only seven miles apart but not directly connected to one another by a road. Access from one village to the other is achieved by traveling down to the main coastal road and then up to the other village, a distance of about 50 miles Both villages present difficulties of accessibility though they are only 20 miles from the main coastal road that skirts the Ionian Sea. The steepness of the road gradier and the condition of the unpaved roads create difficulties in communication. In winter heavy downpours of rain may wash away the roads and occasionally heavy snowfall may disrupt communications between the villages.
The Southern Flanks of the Pollino Range
The villages of Civita, Eianina, and Frascineto are located at the southern edge of the Pollino Range. Here the Lucanian Apennines come to an abrupt end, rising above the Sibari Plain. The plain was formed by the Crati River, which flows from the south, and by numerous torrential streams, whose headwaters lie in the Pollino Range, flowing from the north. (See Figures 2 and 3.)
These three villages are accessible by either road or rail because in the vicinity of their location there is a slight discontinuance in the mountainous back- bone of peninsular Italy. A paved road has been constructed along the foot of the Pollino Range connecting the eastern and western sides of the peninsula. This road passes through the villages of Eianina and Frascineto, and Civita is only one mile from it. Despite the fact that these villages are on fairly level ground, the houses are grouped closely together in very narrow streets, a pattern usually associated with hillside or hilltop villages.
All three villages are located approximately 1,500 feet above sea level and are situated on the flanks of the Pollino Range. Accessibility has become relatively easy in this century because of an intensive road-building program initiated through out the country by the former fascist government.
Figure 2. The distant Pollino Range as viewed from S. Demetrio Corone.
Figure 3. the Sibari Plain near Spezzano Albanese.
Another group of villages that is easily accessible consists of Firmo, Lungro, and Acquaformosa. (See Appendix I, Map 5.) This range, which is on the western side of the peninsula, rises sharply out of the Tyrrhenian Sea, and in many places there is no coastal plain. It slopes more gently on the eastern side, where the three villages are situated close to the head of the Sibari Plain.
All three of these villages are on hilltops: Firmo, about 1,100 feet above sea level; Lungro, about 1,968 feet, and Acquaformosa, about 2,500 feet. Even though these hilltop villages are high in altitude, they do not suffer from inaccessa bility because they are on the paved road leading from the western to the eastern side of the peninsula. This road originates in the Sibari Plain, passes through city of Castrovillari, and then winds through the Italo-Albanian villages to the western coast.
The Central Section of the Coastal Range
Further to the south, and still on the eastern side of the Coastal Range, the Italo-Albanian villages are strung out from north to south: Santa Caterina Albanese Cervicati, Mongrassano, Cavallerizzo, Cerzeto, San Giacomo, San Martino di Finita, Rota Greca, San Benedetto Ullano, and Marri. (See Figure 4. ) All are hillside villages with the exception of S. Caterina Albanese, which is furthest removed from the group and is a. hilltop village. All these villages, which are approximately on the 1,500-foot contour line, face the interior of the peninsula in the direction of the largest floodplain in the “compartment” of Calabria—that formed by the Crati River and its tributaries. (See Appendix I, Map 6.)
Figure 4. In the distance are four Italo-Albanian villages on the eastern slopes of the Coastal Range.
Cervicati, Mongrassano, Cavellerizzo, Cerzeto, S. Giacomo, S. Martino di Finita, and Rota Greca are all on, or very close to, a paved north-south road The villages are strung out on this road, which runs parallel to the Crati Valley, six miles to the east. The Crati Valley contains the main lines of transportation of this area
San Benedetto Ullano and Marri (see Figures 5 and 6) are indirectly con- nected to the other eight villages by a lesser road but still within this north-south axis. S. Caterina Albanese, which occupies a peak a mile from a paved road, is reached by way of a winding dirt road.
Figure 5. The town of S. Benedetto Ullano.
Figure 6. The town of Marri.
Figure 7. The town of S. Demetrio Corone.
The Southern Margin of the “Sila”
Ten villages are located on the central and southern margins of the “Sila,” more specifically on the eastern margins of the “Sila Grande” and on the southern margins of the “Sila Piccola.” These villages are not within the “Sila” itself be- cause the high, rugged, granite plateau has not attracted many settlers. The settlers chose sites at lower elevations, where they could practice the Mediterranean type of agriculture. The Italo-Albanian settlements on the southern edge of the “Sila” are more scattered than those of northern Calabria; yet the villages are in groups of two or three, and within these groups they are not more than ten miles apart.
On the eastern margin of the “Sila Grande,” there are three villages: Carfizzi, S. Nicola dell’Alto, and Pallagorio. All are about 1,800 feet in altitude and are on hilltops. They are about ten miles from the national coastal highway, but the road that leads to them is unpaved. The eastern slopes of the “Sila Grande” have been heavily eroded, and the greyish clay that covers the underlying granite has been cut into deep ravines. Landslides are frequent, often carrying away the road, especially during the winter months when heavy precipitation falls in the “Sila.”
Twenty miles to the southwest of these three villages are three other Italo- Albanian villages: Arietta, Marcedusa, and Andali. Arietta and Marcedusa are hilltop villages, Arietta at an altitude of 1,000 feet and Marcedusa at 2,000 feet. The villages are located some ten miles inland from the Ionian coastline and are on the southern edge of the “Sila Piccola.” . They are served by secondary roads but are not directly connected to one another. Arietta is served only by a mule trail connecting it to a highway about five miles away. The ruggedness of the local relief, plus the frequency of the landslides during the rainy months, accentuates the remoteness of these villages. All three are near the paved national highway, but the roads leading to the villages are not paved.
Some 25 miles further to the west are three other Italo-Albanian villages Caraffa, Vena, and Amato. They are about five miles from one another, but in roads connect them directly. Vena and Caraffa are hilltop villages, respective 800 and 1,200 feet above sea level. Amato, separated from the other two by the Amato River, is a hillside village about 1,500 feet above sea level. The villages are located at the extreme southwest edge of the “Sila Piccola. ” It is at this point that the “Sila” terminates and the “Serre,” a range that occupies the tip of the begins.
Still further west, and removed from the other Italo-Albanian villages, is settlement of Gizzeria. Gizzeria, some 20 miles to the west of the last three villages mentioned, is a hillside village at an altitude of about 1,950 feet. It is a national highway that connects Naples with Reggio Calabria, and is on the western slope that faces the Tyrrhenian Sea. The village is not within the margin of the “Sila Piccola” but on the slopes of a mountain called “Mancuso.” This region represents the southernmost extension of the Coastal Range.
The Northwest Region of Sicily
Along the northern coast of Sicily stretch the Siculo Apennines, which rises sharply from the coast and then slope more gradually towards the interior. The highest elevation of this mountain range, which is a continuation of the Apennine system is achieved in the central portion, gradually decreasing towards the east The interior has the appearance of a roughly dissected plateau. The predominant exposed rock formations are sandstones and limestones, while in the extreme n east portion there are recent formations of volcanic origin. The softer sandstone and limestones have been extensively eroded and give a rugged appearance to the topography. Four Italo-Albanian villages are located south of the city of Palermo, which is 175 miles west of the Straits of Messina. These are Piana degli Albanesi, Contessa Entellina, Palazzo Adriano, and Mezzoiuso. (See Appendix I, Map 3. Although they are in one general location, they do not form a tight group as do the villages on the peninsula. Piana degli Albanesi is ten miles south of Palermo are 30 miles north of Contessa Entellina. Palazzo Adriano is 15 miles east of Contessa Entellina. Mezzoiuso is 30 miles southeast of Piana degli Albanesi. All of the villages are located on, or close to, paved national highways.
The landscape is generally characterized by a rugged, rolling relief in con trast to the rugged, sharp relief of the Lucanian and Calabrian Apennines. The villages of Sicily are usually found on the lower slopes of a mountain—not pre- cariously perched on a peak, or clinging to a steep slope.
Piana degli Albanesi, the northernmost village, is 2,400 feet above sea level at the foot of a mountain that rises to 4,472 feet. (See Figures 8 and 9.) It is 01 national highway that connects the city of Palermo with Agrigento, on the southern coast.
Contessa Entellina is also located at the foot of a mountain. It is connected to a national highway by eight miles of unpaved road, but the road is not hazardous because it is fairly level and does not wind up a steep gradient to the village.
Figure 8. The town of Piana degli Albanesi in Sicily.
Figure 9. Via Castriota in Piana degli Albanesi.
Palazzo Adriano, located in an amphitheater with peaks rising above, is at an altitude of 2,200 feet. The national highway that passes through Piana degli Albanesi also passes through Palazzo Adriano, so that the village is easily reached.
The final Italo-Albanian village in this region is Mezzoiuso, which lies at an elevation of 1,800 feet. It is located on the lower slopes of a high peak that rises to 3,950 feet. The village is about ten miles from an all-weather road and is connected to it by a paved road.
None of these four villages presents the problems of inaccessibility of villages of peninsular Italy. For reasons that will be enlarged upon later, these villages occupy sites that are higher in altitude but are more accessible than the villages on the peninsula. Three of them are well within the interior of the island, but they are adequately served, directly or indirectly, by good roads.
Summary of Physical Settings
The, Italo-Albanian villages are situated largely in the mountains. The limited plains areas consist of narrow valleys and narrow coastal plains. The streams of Lucania, Calabria, and western Sicily are torrential, reaching peak flow during the winter months; during the summer months the stream beds are dry or reduced to a trickle. The narrow valleys are not suited for the settlement because in many places the valley floor is totally occupied by the stream, and the sudden fluctuations in the volume of water cause the stream to deposit coarse material which prevents agriculture. Physical conditions have forced the inhabitants of the area to select village sites on the slopes or the peaks of the mountains, and agriculture is conducted on the slopes.
Topography has determined the sites of the Italo-Albanian villages. Until recent times these villages had been relatively inaccessible to the outlying areas; some of them still lack modern means of communication. Modern methods of road building have linked most of them to national highways that by-pass mountain crests or slopes where the villages are located. These tributary roads bring the necessities of life or the curious traveler to the villages, but for the inhabitants of modern Italy is still a remote region.